Diamond Appraising
and Statistics
Diamond quality is evaluated by four
characteristics, called the "4 C's": carat
weight, clarity, color and cut. Though many
people like to debate the value of each
characteristic, most good jewellers agree that a
balance of all four characteristics make a good
quality diamond.
Carat Weight: In 1913, a standard for measuring
the weight of diamonds and gemstones was
created. The standard weight, known as a carat,
was the same title giving to pre-standardization
measurements and actually derives from the word
for carob seed, which was the unit of
measurement by which gemstones were weighed in
ancient times.
One carat is equal to 1/5 of a gram or
approximately .007 oz. One carat is then divided
into smaller units of measure, called points,
each carat equalling 100 points. Diamonds less
than one carat, or measuring in-between carats
(i.e. one and one half carats) are generally
measured by points and are rounded off to the
nearest measurement. For example a 3/4 carat
diamond is a diamond measuring from .69 points
to .82 points, and is still considered a 3/4
carat diamond.
Carat weight plays a very important part in the
value of a diamond, though diamonds of the same
weight can vary greatly in value depending on
the quality of the other "C's".
Clarity: The clarity of a diamond is a
measurement of the inclusions or blemishes
inside and/or on the outside of a diamond, under
a 10x microscope. The rating system is
subjective to the master diamond cutter, though
the guidelines are as follows:
F - Flawless No internal or external flaws can
be seen under a 10x microscope when viewed by an
experienced diamond grader
IF - Internally Flawless No internal flaws may
be seen under a 10x microscope by an experienced
grader, though there may be a few minor external
blemishes
VVS1, VVS2 - Very Very Slight Inclusions The
diamond will contain inclusions but they will be
difficult to see for an even experienced grader
under a 10x microscope
SI1, SI2 - Slight Inclusions Diamond will
contain inclusions easy to spot under a 10x
microscope and may be visible to the naked eye
I1, I2, I3 - Included Inclusions are visible to
the naked eye
A completely flawless diamond is very rare and
the price would reflect such. Diamond quality is
effected by its clarity, therefore a the higher
the clarity, the better the diamond.
Color: Though most people believe that diamonds
are colorless, diamonds, in fact, come in every
color of the rainbow. The colored diamonds,
known as fancy diamonds, are even more valuable
than traditional white diamonds and can be red,
pink, blue, green, orange, and brilliant yellow
(not to be confused with slightly yellow, which
is considered to be a poor quality white
diamond).
Fancy diamonds aside, white diamonds are graded
on a chart and colorless diamonds are considered
the highest quality. The quality ranges from
colorless (letters D, E and F), to almost
colorless/brown/gray (letters G, H, I and J), to
faint yellow (letters K, L and M) all the way to
the letter Z, which signifies a light yellow
diamond.
Because colorless diamonds are considered the
most prized, diamond quality in the higher
letters (D, E, F) are the better choice.
Cut: The fourth "C", cut, is the only "C" on
which humans have any control. For the other
three "C's", carat weight, clarity and color,
mother nature deals her hand and we get what she
gives us.
Cut can play an important role in diamond
quality, because a poorly cut diamond can ruin
the value of a stone, and in today's world where
profit is the name of the game, master diamond
cutters with years of experience are in charge
of diamond cutting for any reputable company.
Cut refers to the geometric shape and
proportions to which a diamond is pared. In the
1930's a Russian mathematician named Marcel
Tolkowsky, derived a formula for which the
calculations of the proportions of a diamond's
facets (in a round diamond) that would bring an
ideal balance between brilliance and dispersion.
Since then, his formula is the calculation by
which all diamonds are measured.
Though the exact calculation and geometric
design are much too complicated to explain, it
is important to know that a round cut diamond
has 57 or 58 facets (flat planes or surfaces on
a diamond that must be cut in exact relation to
the others to create the most fire and
brilliance). Each facet must be cut an polished
to the exact specifications in relation to the
other facets on the stone. If facets do not
match exactly, the stone it cut poorly the
diamond quality decreases.
When looking for a good quality diamond, it is
most important to try to find a good balance
between all four characteristics. Two diamonds
of the same size (carat weight), may vary
greatly in value if the other three diamond
quality measurements are poor. Remember, don't
be fooled by the sparkling diamond and good
salesperson at the store - do your research and
ask a lot of questions before buying anything.
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